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4 weddings or a funeral?
 

        It's half past ten in the morning and the party has already started. Friends and family from all over the country have all come together to celebrate, and the atmosphere is cheery and warming. The chit chat is bubbly and exciting, the male contingent have already cracked open their particular choice of tipple in anticipation of the upcoming three days activities.The bright smiles on everyone's faces, the sound of the children playing in the garden, show that this is a day of celebration. The question is where are we, and what are we celebrating?

 
     We are in a small village called Ban Mahachai in Nakorn Phanom province of Thailand , and we are celebrating a funeral. Yes, although my description of the atmosphere of the day might not sound like one you'd expect from an article entitled "Funeral". Funerals in Thailand are somewhat different.

     We have all heard before that funerals are to celebrate the life of the deceased, rather than mourn over their deaths; well nobody believes this more than the Thais. Looking at the party gathering for the celebration of the deceased, you could easily mistake it for a birthday party or wedding. But this is the way that the smiling Thai's celebrate funerals.

Thailand
 

       For the duration of the three days, it is customary that the relatives of the deceased themselves provide the party. Food and drink is provided for anyone and everyone who wants to attend, and it is a very open affair. In small villages such as Mahachai this means practically the whole village descends on one household for all meals and drinks over the three days.

       The body of the deceased is placed in a coffin in the living room of their house, and various people come to pay their respects. The monks lead choruses of chants, and prayers, while josticks, candles and other gifts are offered. The three days of celebration are to allow all the relatives and close friends of the deceased time to travel to, and pay their respects to the dead.

 
     As a Ferang (foreigner) arriving at a funeral in Thailand it seems a very abnormal situation. Anywhere in rural Thailand Ferangs always attract attention which is something that you have to get used to, but to enjoy yourself at a funeral however, it seems somewhat inappropriate (except for those of us who've been to an Irish wake).

     Everyone seems to be celebrating. The food is good and the local rice whiskey (which reminds me of tasting ethanol back in my chemistry classes), flow freely for the entire three days. Some of the local men with nothing better to do, outside of the rice farming season tend to go a little over the top. You will always find a small group of them, who manage to persevere and drink continuously for the entire three days.

Thailand
 
     Then; when all relatives have arrived and everyone is sufficiently merry, the real celebrations begin on the third day. Early in the morning those male friends / relatives who were closest will shave off their hair, and don the oranges robes, ordaining as a monk for the day. Final prayers are said, and a few final tears are shed before the coffin bearers leave the house for the cremation area.

     A long piece of string is tied to the coffin, and all present, hold onto it, starting with the monks; followed by close family and friends, and then the local villagers at the back (including those too drunk from all the free whiskey to get any closer to the front (just like an Irish wake)). The procession is lead by a band (traditionally) or a large sound system and everyone is dancing and smiling.

Thailand
 
     When the procession arrives at the cremation area, the coffin is placed on top of the funeral pyre (a large bonfire). In less rural areas they may have a building for cremation but out here in the middle of the Nakorn Phanom countryside a bonfire suffices. The fire is lit by the head monk and everyone watches as the body is burnt away. This is the most eerie part of the celebration, especially as the ashes and bone from a previous cremation that morning are still smoldering to the side.

     For anyone traveling in Thailand , while suggesting that a visit to a funeral is a somewhat inappropriate thing to say. I would definitely advise that if invited to one, you should go along and see for yourself. They are certainly not the sombre experience we are accustomed to, and you are guaranteed to have an interesting, and maybe even a fun, yes FUN , time!

Thailand
 
   

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